Yes, it is the last letter, since we'll be flying home tomorrow morning and I have no idea when I'll ever be back in Lisbon. This was my 5th trip here and I've grown to love the city; it's a human-sized city, seemingly small in many ways, with much to see and do.
Last night, as a fitting farewell of sorts, we went to Parreirinha de Alfama and heard fado, the mournful national folk songs of Portugal. Fado is what jazz is to New Orleans, the blues are to Memphis and Mississippi. We heard 4 great fado singers, and the 2 oldest women were definitely the best. Son says that fado is sorrow and anguish born out of experience, so it makes sense that one must be older to sing it well (These 2 ladies were in their 60's-70's). In a crowded part of the old Alfama we walked out into a square, then through a doorway down into a long low-ceilinged room that was whitewashed and had blue tiles. We ate dinner first: delicious sea bass; in honour of the Armadillo, I washed it down with a bit of vinho verde, even though it wasn't the right season for it. It was still good though.
So tomorrow we do nothing but fly and fly and then make the drive home from Memphis. Lisbon has so much: the sea, the city, the hills, proximity to many places; I just wish it were a little warmer in winter! The Cluny Chronicles